<\/p>\n
Panerai stands out in Richemont\u2019s stable of watches \u2013 for all the wrong reasons.<\/p>\n
As the secondary market for timepieces shows a strong rebound, Cartier is grabbing buyer attention and there\u2019s renewed enthusiasm around Vacheron Constantin, throwing the lack of interest in Panerai into stark contrast.<\/p>\n
The Italian-born brand famed for its big and bulky World War II-era watches is emerging as an outlier on the secondhand market, with both prices and sales volumes lagging Richemont-owned peers.<\/p>\n
Panerai\u2019s volume performance is by far the weakest among the major Richemont watch brands tracked by Subdial, a platform for buying and selling watches.<\/p>\n
With the secondary watch market posting the best gains since 2022 this year, according to the Bloomberg Subdial Watch Index, several of Richemont\u2019s brands saw a meaningful increase in trading activity. But Panerai\u2019s volumes are almost unchanged from the start of 2024.<\/p>\n
\u201cIt really is quite a stark outlier, and at some point surely a problem for Richemont,\u201d said Alexander Nussbacher, head of data at London-based Subdial.<\/p>\n
Richemont did not respond to a request for comments on its plans for Panerai.<\/p>\n
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Read: How Richemont keeps growing despite global luxury slump<\/p>\n
According to EveryWatch\u2019s secondary market watch market report, the secondhand market posted its sharpest half year jump on record in July, driven by a strong surge in demand in the US, with the total value of watches sold jumping by just over 37% to $10.5 billion.<\/p>\n
Still, data from Subdial shows Panerai watches were selling on average for about 8% less in April 2026 than in January 2024.<\/p>\n<\/p>\n
In contrast, Piaget\u2019s secondary-market price is up more than 30% over the period, Jaeger-LeCoultre is roughly 24% higher, while Vacheron Constantin has gained about 13%. Cartier and IWC have also moved higher.<\/p>\n
The numbers reflect a broader market shift. Panerai\u2019s success was built around big, highly recognisable watches with a military pedigree. The Luminor and Radiomir helped turn oversized watches into a defining part of the luxury-watch boom of the late 1990s and 2000s.<\/p>\n
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Read: Gen Z can\u2019t get enough of teensy \u2018grandma watches\u2019<\/p>\n
But the market has moved on, with smaller cases and more jewellery-like watches gaining ground.<\/p>\n
Richemont emerged from the luxury-watch downturn of the past few years well ahead of peers, with its shares recently reaching all-time highs. Sales at its specialist watchmakers unit expanded by 8% in the company\u2019s latest report, with Vacheron Constantin, Jaeger-LeCoultre and A. Lange & S\u00f6hne standout performers.<\/p>\n
The Swiss company recently began reshaping its watch business, agreeing to sell Baume & Mercier to Italy\u2019s Damiani Group. Now, Panerai\u2019s woes raise questions about whether the brand still fits Richemont\u2019s portfolio.<\/p>\n
Read: Richemont sells its Baume & Mercier brand to Italy\u2019s Damiani<\/p>\n
\u00a9 2026 Bloomberg<\/p>\n
#Luxury #watch #revival #brings #bulky #Panerai #timepieces #relief<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"
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